Early in the morning, I said goodbye to my friends and rolled on out of Reno, Nevada, back onto I-80. I had been given a thorough road scouting report, so I knew what I was in for. Dry, unforgiving desert. I faced a steady, gentle, but relentless headwind out of the north with one redeeming quality. It cooled things down just a little bit.
There was a roadside stop marking my first big challenge for the week: the 40-mile Desert, well into my first day out of Reno. I was warned that the cistern for public water was going to be dry. I was carrying extra water for that reason. It didn't turn out to be as critical as I had feared because not far after that point, there was a crossroad with a convenience store. I would have made it there without danger. I was still grateful for the heads-up. The plaque marking the historic site was not the most encouraging thing I've ever read. It lists the number of livestock and settlers that died crossing on their way to homestead in the west. It was dry and hot, and I don't think I chose the smartest route for my almost transcontinental crossing attempt. I started second-guessing those choices as I encountered very challenging terrain and conditions.
The colours of the terrain were quite beautiful, but unfortunately, they don't really show in the photos I took along the route. The brighter shades all seemed to wash out. I pitched camp on a bluff overlooking the highway. I was invisible until I got up in the morning to eat breakfast. The long-haul truckers at this point started recognizing me, and for the rest of the week, I got the occasional horn blast and wave from trucks coming from the other direction.
Before the final boss challenge, I had to do two big climbs. They were hard, but not compared to the climb I'd already done up the Sierra Nevadas. The road turned in a more easterly direction before Golconda Summit, and because of that, the wind started to help me instead of holding me back. While I ate supper, I checked the map, and there was some kind of major roadside rest coming up. With the help of the wind, I figured I could get there before dark. I did with room to spare. Turns out this rest area did allow overnight camping. I talked to several of the RVers there who encouraged me to stay the night. They assured me that they would make sure that I wouldn't be disturbed. That was appreciated.
I stopped in Carlin, Nevada, to replenish my food supplies at a small grocery store. The lady at the checkout turned out to be the mother of Olympic cycling road race silver medalist Rebecca Twigg. She also knew Steve Bauer, who won the men's silver in the same Olympics, and who happened to hail from my hometown. His dad was my English Literature teacher in high school for one year. She offered to let me camp in her yard that evening. I declined because it was early in the afternoon, and I still wanted to be in Salt Lake City that weekend. I should have had my picture taken with her, but my brain was getting a bit baked, and I didn't think of it.
The baddest obstacle was the tunnel just after Carlin, Nevada. For whatever reason, I had not noticed that on the map when I was planning my trip. I'm not sure if that would have changed my route, but it was not a welcome surprise. I'd gone through a short tunnel at the Gaviota Pass, but that was relatively easy. I waited for a break in traffic and was out the other end before anyone came to pass me. This tunnel was a long one, all the way through a mountain. Tunnels can be quite dangerous in that the change of lighting on entering can temporarily impair a driver's vision. One of the last things anyone is expecting to encounter in a tunnel is some guy on a bicycle. Inside the tunnel, the shoulder I was riding on diminished greatly. I waited for a really long break in traffic. Nothing for as far as I could see, and I took off with the closest thing I could come to a full touring load sprint. I was lucky. I was almost all the way through before someone came along to pass. I was quite relieved to be on the other side, safe and sound. Not sure if I ever want to do that again.
The Endless Climb
It did seem to go on forever. Riding up hill literally for days on end. Crossing the Sierra Nevada mountain range was not for the faint of heart. The downhill part was the most fun.











